What is Sustainable (and Ethical) Fashion?

March 19, 2022

Hear me out.. I will never say no to meaningful, engaging and critical conversations about the everyday injustices, whether it be global or right in our backyards. But what is the use in speaking on its issues if we're not also talking about its solutions? We must remind ourselves that there is a world of hope, possibilities and solutions to combat the injustice, oppression, inequities, and much more and we should also be talking about them, as much as we should be implementing them.
So let's talk about one of the ways we can quit fast fashion through the movement of...

SUSTAINABLE FASHION (AKA SLOW FASHION)
                           Meniga Rewards. Sustainable Fashion for Sustainable Growth. September 2019

What is sustainable fashion? It is the movement and process of fostering change to fashion products and the fashion system towards greater ecological integrity and social justice (Wikipedia), which is why it can also be referred to as ethical fashion, or slow fashion, which is simply put, the exact opposite of fast fashion. It can also mean treating or developing a relationship with our clothing that is mindful of environmental and social practices, which can look like re-wearing/reusing, repairing, reducing or recycling. There is no one set definition of what sustainable fashion is as it means different things to different people. However, the bottom line is, the garments we wear is treated with respect and dignity and has a longer lifespan.

BRIEF HISTORY & BACKGROUND

In case you didn't know, sustainable fashion is not new. Like many things, there is history and significance to these movements, which suddenly come to a rise and popularity over the past few years and can easily become misconstrued and co-opted by other groups.

The act of being sustainable, or rather sustainability itself is the ability to continue or last for a long period of time (Wikipedia). It is often as a result of being financially aware or responsible, or mindful of waste in relation to the cost of an item. Black, Indigenous and People of Color (BIPOC) populations have historically been the groups who have adopted and live by the principles of saving and ultimately being resourceful of the goods they have and own. Whether it is food, supplies or fashion, to be sustainable and resourceful is naturally embedded within the cultures of BIPOC communities. 

The intent, care and respect for where things come back, how much it cost to purchase and the efficiency of reusing it over and over again as well as repairing and fixing an item is a cultural habit or principle that dates back to our ancestors from South Asian/South Asian diaspora and Black communities where having a relationship and connection to our items, especially clothing, is a way of life and a testament to culture and heritage. Before colonization, these cultures were rich in its natural resources of local textiles and creation inspired by art and culture in the communities they are from. Clothing was crafted by hand using the natural resources available and made to wear with pride. There was a connection and sentimental aspect of the clothing worn, which was made to last and be passed onto generations to come (Elet by Niha).

There is an indigeneity to fashion that we often ignore here in the Global North (North America, Europe, Australia), which is integral to cultures in the Global South (Latin America, Asia, Africa, Oceania). What I mean by indigeneity is the origin, meaning and purpose behind a garment is respected and treated with care, thus lasting longer. Recognizing and honouring that is essential in how we navigate sustainability in fashion, not from a capitalistic viewpoint, but rather a cultural and sentimental one. 

Of course, it's not easy to have these deep rooted relationships with the clothing we buy today, but what we can do is implement these principles and philosophy to how we view and connect with the things we buy and essentially, add value to our clothing.

ETHICAL FASHION 

You may have heard of the term 'ethical fashion' in relation to sustainable fashion, but what does that mean? Ethical fashion is garment design, production, and distribution that focuses on reducing harm to both people and planet (The Good Trade). By the look of this definition, it sounds pretty similar and familiar to the core of what sustainable fashion is. To be sustainable is to be mindful of environmental and social practices, which in other words, is being mindful of the ethical practices. To dive further, ethical practices include sourcing materials in a manner that does not compromise the environment or those physically sourcing it, the condition of where garment workers are making the clothing and if it is a healthy and safe environment, and whether or not garment workers and those in the supply chain are being paid a living wage (The Good Trade). If the process of producing, manufacturing and distributing clothing from beginning to end compromises our environments as well as its people, then that becomes unethical. Think of it as a short cut that only serves the CEO's at the top and the consumers who purchase it.

The definition of sustainable fashion has long been referred to as solely the design, production and material of a garment, with consideration of the environmental impacts, however over the course of a few years have we shifted and expanded this definition and movement to include the social impacts, or its ethics. 

We cannot have sustainable fashion without considering the ethical practices and behaviours, as it has far encompassed the surface level of what fashion is to only consumers, rather what fashion is to those who source and make our garments, thus including the entire supply chain. If it does not sustain them, it does not serve us well. Which is why sustainable and ethical fashion has become one in the same--integrated into the DNA of what makes fashion and its industry sustainable for all.

WHAT SUSTAINABLE FASHION LOOKS LIKE 

Durham University Sustainable and Ethical Fashion (DUSEF) LinkedIn

BUYING LESS
It's easy to feel pressured into thinking that in order to be sustainable in your wardrobe, you must buy sustainable clothes/fashion. Let's make this easy: buying less (amongst other things) is the most sustainable thing you can do. 

The core values of sustainable fashion is to continue wearing what you already have and not buy more clothing--it truly defeats its purpose of being sustainable. Sustainability can lend itself to consumerism in that we are told to 'quit fast fashion and buy clothing made with sustainable materials and products', when really that is both redundant and not to mention, unaffordable to the masses. The less clothing we consume, the better we are doing for the planet, and not to mention, our wallets.

RE-WEARING
Re-wearing clothing is the solution to buying less. All of these simple acts lend themselves to one another and creates what is called a circular fashion economy; viewing fashion as a regenerative system that expands and maximizes the lifespan of garments (Motif). Learning of ways to style the clothes you already own is a great way to experiment with your creativity and pair items together you wouldn't have thought possible. Following fashion bloggers or doing a simple search online can open your closet to a world of possibilities.

But, of course, not all clothing is made to last forever (although it does funnily enough as the materials used takes years to biodegrade). Clothing can and will deteriorate over the years, leading to holes and rips and also succumb to accidents such as stains and markings. However, just because your clothes become damaged, it does not mean it's the end of its life. 

REPAIRING
Those who can sew and stitch are god-send (or whatever spiritual being you believe in, if you do). Having the ability to fix and repair clothing is the ultimate gift you can give yourself, and I wish I learnt how earlier on (I still have time)! It is incredibly easy for the everyday person to throw their clothes out or donate their clothing (this can be a tough situation to navigate, as although it gives others the opportunity to fix an item if purchased, it also gives the responsibility to others in general. Especially if you truly did like the item and would have worn it, albeit damaged, paying someone or asking a family member or friend to help repair it is far worth the trouble than giving it away for someone else to take care of it and possibly not being purchased at all...which of course, ends up in landfill. Ahh it's complex, isn't it!)

The point is, we should definitely learn a thing or two from our ancestors or family members who have grown up knowing how to sew and repair not just clothing but broken items in general, because it will continue to maximize the life of your beloved clothing whilst avoiding purchasing more and new.

THRIFTING/SECOND HAND
Look, not everyone is into fashion or style and care enough to experiment with different items and creative styles, but for those who do, sometimes purchasing new is an option. Fashion is a personal journey and for those who see clothes as an extension of their personality or creativity, finding unique pieces can elevate their styles and ultimately, their closet.

Shopping at thrift stores or second hand shops is a great alternative to shopping fast fashion. The main reasons are:
  • It is an environmentally friendly choice, in that you're not buying new clothing that perpetuates demand, as well as helping minimize the amount of clothing that goes into landfill
  • It is not directly supporting the fast fashion brands (not giving the already rich CEO's more money)
  • It is more affordable and cost-effective
  • Most of the time, clothes are one of a kind and you can find unique items that inspire creativity in your wardrobe
There is much more to delve into on thrifting and shopping second hand, however I will leave that to shine in its own dedicated post!

SUSTAINABLE BRANDS/COMPANIES
Lastly, just because buying more clothing is not at the top of the list, it does not mean it's still not an option. For those who can afford it, it is a great way to support artisans and independent brands whose business model and core values are rooted in sustainable and ethical practices. 

It is important to address the ways we can support sustainable brands and companies without feeling pressured into believing it is the only true way to be sustainable. One way to do so is by creating a mental checklist when wanting or needing new clothes by asking yourself the following questions:
  • Why do I want this item and do I really need it?
  • Do I already have this item but haven't looked or checked properly?
  • Am I able to do a clothing swap for this item?
  • Can I thrift this item or find it second hand?
If you answer no to majority or all of these questions, then purchasing your item from a sustainably, responsibly and ethically sourced brand is a great way! These items are made to last long and are crafted with materials that are mindful of the environment and the people who create them. Supporting these independent brands is an amazing decision and option, however it is important to check in to remind yourself of how you can be both conscious and supportive with your buying power and to avoid being wasteful and unsustainable with the clothes you already own.

WHAT IT DOES NOT LOOK LIKE

SUSTAINABLE FASHION IS NOT SOMETHING YOU BUY INTO 
As I've mentioned in the previous points above, to be sustainable in your wardrobe does not mean buying into sustainability. And that goes for many other things, not just clothing. You cannot truly be sustainable in fashion if you're constantly buying sustainable and ethical clothing or thrifting clothing every other week, whilst giving away the clothing you own. 

It's important to be aware and conscious of the fast fashion habits that creep in when shifting to a more sustainable mindset and lifestyle. With all the new trends and up and coming mom and pop shops and independent sustainable brands, it can be incredibly easy to want to buy, buy, buy. Before you know it, you have a closet full of clothes you may not wear, or want anymore, or outgrew in style because the trends have changed. And just because you bought it from a sustainably and ethically sourced brand, it does not mean you get off the hook.

Sustainable fashion is much more than where you get it, but also how often you get it. If you are purchasing these items every week or every month, it becomes an issue of overconsumption, and we all know that ain't sustainable. The same mentality applies to thrifting; we all know thrifting can be really fun and gives you a rush of dopamine, but once it turns into a social activity, it becomes much more than shopping because you need to, but shopping because you're bored and want to (of course, you can shop because of wants, as I know you don't necessarily need a lot of things, however when the wants become blurred with boredom and having nothing else to do, that is when it becomes a problem).

It takes a lot of unpacking and checking in with ourselves to differentiate our shopping habits from fast fashion to sustainable fashion, and once you instill these habits into your everyday thinking, your mentality towards (sustainable) fashion shifts from overconsumption to resourcefulness.


SOURCES USED



The Good Trade: What is Ethical Fashion? https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-ethical-fashion

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