Yuddha Maharaj

When I think of fast fashion brands, I can't help but think of 'The Big Five' of wild animals in Africa. In case you're not familiar with the big five, it is a term coined to reference the difficulty in hunting the lion, leopard, black rhino, African bush elephant, and the African buffalo. Of course, we (meaning I) don't support the hunting/poaching or anything of that sort of any animals, however it is now widely used by safari tour operators (which I have done once before and it was utterly amazing), so I don't mind using the analogy.

Why do I think of this when I think of fast fashion brands? Well, the first brands that come to mind happen to be the big top fast fashion businesses, which are; Forever21, H&M, Zara, SHEIN, and URBN. Of course, there are far far more than just these, namely Fashion Nova, Boohoo, Topshop, Primark, Missguided, New Look, and Uniqlo, but for the sake of this analogy, I'm going to limit it to these five major fashion brands.

Disclaimer: These are in no way in order of worst to best or best to worst!

                            The Fall of Forever 21, Jerk Magazine

                                         The Daily Hive

                                              Avaaz.Org

                                                                                          Curiously Conscious

                                         URBN LinkedIn

Most of us who have grown up in the West have been taught the altruistic and compassionate deed of  'giving back' or donating clothing (amongst many other stuff) to charity or thrift shops because there are people in need. Up until a year ago, I myself believed donating clothing to charity was a good thing, because it means the things I no longer need or want can go to a place that gives it to people who truly need it. What I didn't know was the complexities and nuances of what donating clothing to a charity shop means and the problem it creates that goes unknown to the public.

                                                        Global News, 2020

                                                  Harvard Business Review, 2022.

                      Green America, What Really Happens to Unwanted Clothes?

                                             The World, 2021 (Kantamanto Market)

             The Guardian,  2021. Plastic waste found by Greenpeace in Adana province in Turkey.

Fashion Revolution was founded in the wake of the Rana Plaza disaster, which has grown to become the world's largest fashion activism movement, mobilising citizens, brands and policymakers through research, education and advocacy (Fashion Revolution).

                         Why the Fashion Revolution Still Matters Years After Rana Plaza 

You might have heard the terms linear economy and circular economy in previous posts of mine (here and here). A linear and circular economy does not just apply to the fashion industry, rather the entirety of our economic systems and its industries. What is a linear and circular economy? 

A linear economy is the process of taking raw materials and transforming into products, which is then discarded as waste. 

A circular economy is a mode of production and consumption, which involves sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, refurbishing, and recycling existing materials and products as long as possible (Wikipedia).

In simpler terms, a linear economy is built on a lack of respect and value of goods, which ultimately goes to waste, whereas a circular economy is built on extending the lifespan of goods through a multitude of sustainable processes and with respect to biodiversity and the environment.

Take --> Make --> Use --> Waste

Let's break down how exactly a linear economy looks like in the fashion industry:

This system cuts corners to avoid higher costs and time, which ultimately compromises labour work of farmers and environmental health, such as over-farming and the use of pesticides (Grow Ensemble).

Microplastics are also a huge problem when clothing is washed, as it goes into our water systems and pollutes are ocean. The use of our clothing creates more harm than good, as we can see!

A circular economy is also regenerative, which means the materials and products used to make a garment is then returned back to the biosphere (the environment), where it can be reused for environmental purposes when it is no longer of use to us (Motif).

Take --> Make (Recycle, Return) --> Use (Repair, Reuse) 

A lot is considered during this stage when designing a garment, which can include and is not limited to;

• Durability of a garment; how long can it last for?
• Timelessness; is it trendy or can it be a timeless piece to wear for years to come?
• Are the materials used sustainably sourced and able to be reused and biodegrade?
• Are the garment workers being treated and paid fairly?
• Can the garment be repaired or reused once the item has reached its max wear? (The Honest Consumer)

                                 Regenerative Fibres: The Future of Fashion? Eugreenia

Who doesn't love thrifting? I mean.. I know a ton of folks who still view thrifting as dirty, poor, cheap and low-class, but besides those few, there has definitely been a social and cultural shift in the past couple of years. And I'm here for it.

A BRIEF HISTORY

Now folks, thrifting or shopping second-hand has existed as long as modern civilization (The State Press) and has only evolved into a market of its own. Its prominence began in the late 19th century, when the Industrial Revolution introduced the mass production of clothing in America, shifting the idea of clothing as affordable and disposable (Time). The second-hand market served low-income communities, specifically after the wave of immigrants to America, ultimately stigmatizing those who buy used second hand clothing as coming from a lack of money (Time), which continued to further divide and marginalize communities through classism (The State Press).

Organizations such as Salvation Army and Goodwill came to be during this period, which the religious affiliated groups saw as an opportunity to give back to the community through outreach programs and offering those from poorer and marginalized communities a chance to work by collecting clothes and goods, as well as generated money in the business (Time).

Fast forward to the 20th century, thrift stores became a place of self-expression and creativity. The 1970s was the beginning of a new wave of thrifting, which was centred on individual expression and a sense of freedom of identity (The State Press). Throughout the decades, new styles emerged, whether it was grunge or vintage (and everything in between), and thrift stores were the place to find unique items that represented a cultural shift.

That being said, thrift and charity shops have been primarily utilized by low-income or BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, People of Color) communities, as immigrants used it as a means of survival and one of the only options to buy affordable clothing, as well as everyday products.

That brings us to the 21st century where thrifting, second-hand shopping and vintage clothing have become popular and normalized, although only recently becoming destigmatized. The industry is estimated at $28 billion (The State Press) and has become apart of the solution of the environmental crisis/movement.

It is important to note that during the early years of thrift stores, the consideration of environmental impacts were not a thing, rather was more of a cultural and social statement. We are now seeing the benefits and impacts that thrift stores offer to mitigate greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution that has become a direct result of the fast fashion industry, which of course, can still have its concerns in the second-hand industry.

GENTRIFICATION OF THRIFT STORES

The argument of thrift stores becoming gentrified over the years has become a complex and interesting conversation to navigate, nonetheless learn about. For those who don't know what gentrification is, gentrification is the process of changing the character of a neighbourhood, notably lower-income/poorer in nature, through the influx of affluent/wealthier people moving in, thus improving housing and adding new businesses and ultimately making the area nicer to live in (Wikipedia). You may think this all sounds great and is a good thing, which it is to the folks moving in and for the betterment of the community, but it does so at the cost of displacing those currently residing in the community. Due to increase prices and cost of things and living, those coming from lower socioeconomic backgrounds are no longer able to afford living in the community and are thus forced to move.

So how does this relate to rise of thrift stores? As previously mentioned, thrift stores were designed to offer affordable clothing to the masses whilst turning it into a charitable cause. The main demographics it served were newly immigrants and those coming from low-income communities. So, what happens when thrift stores catch wind and gain popularity? You may be thinking, it leads to the demand and new stores are built purely for the needs of the consumers, rather than the needs of the area, however, that may not be the case. In fact, it isn't necessarily a direct result of the consumer, rather the capitalist greed that these corporations (which is what they have now become unfortunately) that profit off their popularity. Many businesses and corporations see this as just that--a business--that churns in more profit, and I can only imagine how much these businesses are worth now with the popularity of thrift stores rising more today.

In terms of new stores being built, they are usually built in low to mid income areas and you will almost never see thrift stores in more affluent communities. The stores that already exist, exist in areas where the community are in need of and rely on secondhand items and goods as their main source. With the rise in popularity and the profits made by these businesses, gentrification can occur through the increase in prices, making it financially and socially challenging for lower-income families.

It goes without saying that there will almost never be a shortage of donated clothing, so it is less about the influx of items and more about the businesses whom lose financial stability due to competing stores (especially charitable ones that actually run like a charity and give back to the community). Whether or not thrift stores are gentrified can really differ from city to city and countries worldwide. Not all thrift stores (or second-hand shops) are the same or even operate within the same business structures. 

So, what are the different types of second-hand shops?

TYPES OF SECOND-HAND SHOPS

There are a variety of different second-hand shops and how they operate, whether it be a thrift store, consignment store, vintage shop, or simply referring to it as second-hand, which is more of a general term that encompasses the entirety of the market.

Thrift shop/store are typically* charitable social enterprises (non-profits) that collects donated items and raises funds to support the community or fund program services. Charity shop is mainly used in the UK, and opportunity shop is mainly used in Australia and New Zealand (Wikipedia).

Consignment stores are a type of resale store that sells good for a percentage of the sale price, typically more curated as well (Tree Hugger). Consignment shops are more selective and won't take whatever you bring in to donate. They sell items on behalf of the original owner, which means the owner receives money from the store for the clothes they accept (2A Thrift Superstore).

Vintage stores are similar to consignment stores in that they are curated. They typically consist of a variety of older and timely pieces and items that are rare, and are also higher in price because of that. They are also similar to antique shops, which sell more furniture and household items than clothing, although do sell clothing that are often vintage and older in style.

Second-hand refers to items or goods being previously owned and used, ultimately not being new. Other variations of this terminology are pre-loved and gently used. Secondhand is the overarching umbrella term that encompasses all of these terminologies above.

*Typically: I say typically because it is also important to note that not all 'thrift stores' run or operate as a charity, and it can be misleading as a consumer. Stores like Value Village (this one hits home because I religiously thrift there as it is the most feasible and accessible to me...finding a balance is hard, but I also know there has been changes!), have been sued in the past for misleading people on how much their donations actually go to charity when most of it goes to their business, making it a for-profit company (The List). The company have misled consumers into thinking they are a non-profit, which violates the law (The List). They are now transparent about their business model and being a for-profit organization, whilst also paying non-profit partners for our donated items to help fund programs in the community. According to the Better Business Bureau, non-profits must spend no less than 65% of total expenses on program services [if offered] (The List). It is important to do your research as best as you can if shopping at a thrift store that operates as a charity is important to you.

Some non-profit thrift stores in Peel Region (all links are clickable):

The Salvation Army Thrift Store (Brampton)

Journey Thrift (Brampton)

Encore Thrift Store (Brampton)

Regen Thrift Store (Brampton)

HOW IS THRIFTING SUSTAINABLE?

Now, we get to the part we've been waiting for. How exactly is thrifting sustainable and why has it become a massive part of the sustainable fashion movement? It has become an alternative to fast fashion, due to its impact, resources and accessibility.

The main reasons why thrifting is a sustainable alternative is because:

• It reduces the demand and manufacturing of clothing made by fast fashion brands/companies. If less people shop at fast fashion stores, the demand decreases. In doing so, it conserves and reduces water consumption when producing clothing, which then reduces water and air pollution in its manufacturing, as well as air pollution in its manufacturing supply chains (Swift Wellness).
• It reduces waste from overproduction of clothing from manufacturing supply chains. If less clothing is produced, the less waste it will create.
• It prevents a vast majority of clothing going into landfill. As mentioned in this post, only 15% of donated clothing gets recycled, whereas 85% of that ends up in landfill (Waste Reduction Week Canada). When you shop from thrift/secondhand shops, you are helping reduce the likelihood of clothing going into waste and giving it a second chance (hence second-hand).
• Remember when I mentioned that in order for a company or brand to be truly sustainable, it must apply to all folks working within the supply chain? (check it out here) That goes for you/us as consumers and environmentalists/sustainable advocates, in that although we have that inner turmoil and challenge of knowing we are still buying fast fashion brands and wonder if we're doing any good, just remember you are not directly supporting and giving those brands your money. Because it is from a third party source if you will, you are merely avoiding supporting the fast fashion brands whilst directly supporting all of those reasons listed above! There is always good in the complex, just have to look at it from a different angle.

         wikiHow: How to Shop at Thrift Stores