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You might have heard the terms linear economy and circular economy in previous posts of mine (here and here). A linear and circular economy does not just apply to the fashion industry, rather the entirety of our economic systems and its industries. What is a linear and circular economy?
A linear economy is the process of taking raw materials and transforming into products, which is then discarded as waste.
A circular economy is a mode of production and consumption, which involves sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, refurbishing, and recycling existing materials and products as long as possible (Wikipedia).
In simpler terms, a linear economy is built on a lack of respect and value of goods, which ultimately goes to waste, whereas a circular economy is built on extending the lifespan of goods through a multitude of sustainable processes and with respect to biodiversity and the environment.
LINEAR ECONOMY & FAST FASHION
You will most often hear a linear economy paired with the fast fashion industry, and that is because the current industry of fast fashion is operated and built on a linear fashion economy. This means the processes and manufacturing of clothing begins from extraction of natural resources to sale and eventually leads to waste. It is the most unsustainable method of living and is how most of our industries operate on.
Sustainable Fashion Terminology. The Considerate Consumer (Original source: Greenstitch)
Take --> Make --> Use --> Waste
Let's break down how exactly a linear economy looks like in the fashion industry:
Extractive Production (Take)
Our clothing production begins by the extraction of raw materials, such as wool, cotton, silk, and fibres such as hemp and flax (Grow Ensemble). However, most of the materials extracted happen to be synthetic fibres, deriving from crude oil. In one of my previous post, we talked about crude oil being a huge component that makes up plastic.
This system cuts corners to avoid higher costs and time, which ultimately compromises labour work of farmers and environmental health, such as over-farming and the use of pesticides (Grow Ensemble).
Linear Design & Production (Make)
In a linear economy, the design and production phase does not consider the opportunities to recycle, reuse or extend the life of a product, which causes more waste and more environmental harm. For example, leather and rubber can be recycle on its own, but gluing them together makes it impossible to separate and recycle to their respective streams (Grow Ensemble).
Consumption (Use)
Due to our single use and throwaway culture, that has evidently found its way into the fashion industry. But fear not, it is not just from brands or consumers, it is both. As majority of these clothing are made from synthetic fibres and are not made to last, we tend to not value it as much and thus, treat it as disposable. Especially with the overconsumption of clothing, it creates more temporary relationships with our clothes and loses its value and usefulness.
Microplastics are also a huge problem when clothing is washed, as it goes into our water systems and pollutes are ocean. The use of our clothing creates more harm than good, as we can see!
End of Life (Waste)
As an extension to our consumption and use of clothing as disposable and temporary, it ultimately ends up as waste in landfills. A linear economy teaches us to throw away or get rid of clothing that are either damaged or no longer in service to us, which is why operating on this economy is continuing and perpetuating environmental damage and harm. There is $460 billion of lost value to consumers every year from clothes being thrown away that could still be worn (Grow Ensemble).
CIRCULAR ECONOMY & SUSTAINABLE FASHION
This brings us to where we as a society and global community want to be and are slowing working towards each day! A circular economy is built on respect, care and value of our clothing, which means extending the lifecycle of a garment through the means of recycling, repairing, and reusing and ultimately closing the loop of our production. Closing the loop looks like reusing the same materials over and over again, to either create new products or conserve what's already made (The Future of Commerce). It aims to minimize waste, built to last and eventually become fully recycled (Grow Ensemble).
A circular economy is also regenerative, which means the materials and products used to make a garment is then returned back to the biosphere (the environment), where it can be reused for environmental purposes when it is no longer of use to us (Motif).
Take --> Make (Recycle, Return) --> Use (Repair, Reuse)
Ethical Textile Production (Take)
In contrast to a linear economy, a circular economy ethically sources renewable materials instead of non-renewable resources. This means using natural and organic fabrics, such as cotton or linen or already existing materials that can be recycled.
Design Phase (Make: Recycle, Return)
The design process considers the overall efficiency of the garment as well as longevity, which means keeping in mind of resource efficiency, biodegradability, non-toxicity, and recyclability (Motif).
A lot is considered during this stage when designing a garment, which can include and is not limited to;
- Durability of a garment; how long can it last for?
- Timelessness; is it trendy or can it be a timeless piece to wear for years to come?
- Are the materials used sustainably sourced and able to be reused and biodegrade?
- Are the garment workers being treated and paid fairly?
- Can the garment be repaired or reused once the item has reached its max wear? (The Honest Consumer)
Sustainability of Clothing (Use: Repair, Reuse)
The most important and vital aspect of a circular fashion economy is the sustainability of our garments. It means minimizing waste and the detrimental effects it has on the planet. With the care, intention and durability of fabric and materials used in production, it means garments are least likely to become disposable, maximizing the lifespan of a garment.
When a garment is eventually at its last cycle (as nothing truly lasts forever, except for maybe plastics for 200 years, which is "forever" for us humans at this current day and age), the ability to mend, repair and reuse is far more likely as the materials used are recyclable and at times, biodegradable, depending on certain fabrics.
Upcycling is also a popular method of reusing clothing and turning it into a new item. The goal is to maximize our clothing by reusing the same garments in new and innovate ways, while minimizing textile waste, as well as the pollution derived from that.
The biggest factor of a circular fashion economy is to buy less clothing, which minimizes the amount of waste produced when manufacturing garments. Repairing and reusing the clothing we have, as much as we can, is the best way to close the loop and maximize the lifespan of our closets.
REGENERATIVE FASHION
Regenerative fashion is not new, but it isn't exactly old either. It has definitely been discussed much more in recent times, especially in regard to sustainability and fashion. Let's pull it back a bit to understand what it means for something to be regenerative, which is where regenerative agriculture and farming comes into play.
Regenerative agriculture is a type of farming and grazing (the use of animals consuming wild vegetations in order to improve biodiversity, Wikipedia), which focuses on creating and restoring healthy soil, increasing biodiversity, as well as is a leading solution to climate change (sequester/drawn down of carbon) (Regeneration International).
Regenerative fashion is the process of creating garments made from fibres produced through regenerative farming. It means to use fabric locally grown from farmlands that will ultimately enrich our planet.
Regenerative fashion differs from sustainable fashion, as it closely protects and respects soil health and biodiversity. It is considered farm to closet, in that its regenerative textile economy closely align with regenerative agriculture with respect to food sovereignty and soil health (Holly Rose). It is also rooted in Indigenous wisdom and knowledge of nature and its inherent value.
In terms of its relation to a circular fashion economy, the goal of regenerative fashion is to leave more and better than what we take; making things better rather than sustaining what is already out there. With our clothing, producing garments that are made with mindful and regenerative fabrics, which will then be beneficial and of use to the environment, is what makes a fashion economy circular.
CONCLUSION
The current fashion industry is operated on a linear economy and we have far learnt the consequences and downfall it has on both people and our planet. There is much to learn and unlearn and to adopt a new way of living in a circular economy and that won't change until we have a major cultural and societal shift in thinking.
With the wave of sustainability in fashion, there has been a lot of changes in how we view shopping and value our clothing with respects to our planet and those who make our clothing. However, the biggest change we can make in adopting a circular fashion economy is by simply buying less (which means reusing what we already have). With the decrease in purchasing new clothing and thus demand, the less waste and pollution will be created. It may not be an easy venture, but it is a start in shifting our current fashion industry from linear to circular. And we love circles ;)
SOURCES USED
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